I had ever intention of keeping up my sewing tips that I started.... way too long ago to remember. And my next post has been planned almost as long. Life has a way of getting in the way and messing with all the best laid plans.
My friend Kristy has been sewing with knits and shared some tips on her blog. As I was commenting and trying to share my knowledge, I realized she probably didn't want a novel for a comment so I'm doing it here. I'm going to FINALLY get around to my next sewing tip: Knits.
Oh my do I have some tips for you. You probably know that I sew swimsuits and dancewear as a little part time job around here. That means I sew on knits, knits and more knits.
I also learned about sewing on knits as a child when knitwear was a huge hit in the 80's with the wide knit bands that could be worn as belts, tops, headbands... so versatile... so funny.
Sorry, all I have is phone pictures, but it was the fastest and easiest so I just went with it.
First... the basics.
Fabric
There are lots of different kinds of knits out there. I couldn't possibly tell you what they all are but there are some things to look at when using knits.
Some only stretch 2 ways. So if you were to hold each selvage and pull it would stretch, but if you turned it 90 degrees and pulled, it wouldn't budge. I don't really care for this kind of knit much, but I tell you, most of the knits at JoAnns are like this.
Some stretch 4 ways. This is best for swimsuits because lets face it, you really want something that is going stretch both ways when it has to form to all the curves of your body. I've had the hardest time finding any knits that stretch 4 ways at local fabric stores. They are all over the internet though.
There are all sorts of thicknesses, stretchiness, textures etc. Seriously, I don't even know them all... Just know that "knit" doesn't really mean much more than it stretches in one way or another.
Tools:
Ever wonder why when you take your t-shirt to your sewing machine to mend a simple seam, and your machine will not even make a proper stitch? That's because knits require a special needle. Instead of a sharp needle, you need a ball point or knit needle. The top of the needle is rounded instead of sharp. That allows the stretchy fibers of fabric to be pushed aside by the needle so it can go down and catch the bobbin thread. With a sharp needle, it catches those stretchy fibers and either tears it, or it stretches along with the needle, interrupting the catching process and you get skipped stitches.
Another wonder is a double needle. Not all machines are able to use a double needle, but I would say that most will. If you can zig zag with your machine, you should be able to use a double needle. I will talk more about this in a bit but a double needle makes a very professional looking hem or finish on knit fabrics, but it's not all about looks. More on that in a bit.
next.... pins. Really, Until you have sewn on knits for 400+ hours like me... you will need to use pins. And I still use them a lot, just not as much as I used to. It will save you time, trust me. If you don't like unpicking seams on woven fabrics you will HATE it on stretchy ones. Make sure your pins are thin and sharp otherwise they catch and pull which is the opposite of helpful.
Last... I hate to say it because it's an expensive little tool. A serger. What a dream though. Seriously, if you are ever going to be serious about sewing on knits often, you want a serger. Honestly, I think a serger is just as important as a sewing machine for any project, but I sew a lot. I mean, I've been sewing for 5 hours today already and I'm planning on at least 3 more. So I'm certainly not telling you that every seamstress needs a serger, I'm just saying that if you love to sew, and can afford one, you will never be sorry that you own a serger. My current project has too many sequins so I can't use my serger (too many sequins breaks sergers) and Oh! it's so sad. My first serger was purchased on ebay for $80 12 years ago. It's probably 25 years old. It still works great (not as great as my new one) but it has paid for itself over and over again in the time it's saved and the joy it has brought me. :) Did you also know that spell check doesn't understand the word serger? This paragraph is half red. ;)
Now on to techniques:
Cutting knits:
Dull scissors won't cut it when it comes to knits. They just won't do it for the same reason the needles need to be special. If the blade isn't super sharp, the fabric will just warp and stretch instead of cutting nicely.
I do all of my cutting with a rotary blade and self healing mat. They are expensive to be sure, but so nice. If you don't have those things, my friend suggested cutting on the carpet. The carpet helps keep that slippery, wiggly, curly fabric in it's place.
I also use weights on my patterns instead of pins. 1. because if you run over a pin with your rotary blade it's toast. 2. because it's faster and the fabric stays in place better because you don't have to lift the fabric to get the scissors under.
When cutting, make sure that the stretch of the fabric goes around the body horizontally. with a 4 way stretch it's not as important, but usually one way will still stretch better than another. Make the stretchiest direction go around you like a belt. If you don't and it's even a little snug, you can't get it on.
Sewing:
If you fabric is really stretchy and will be stretched a lot in use you have to remember that a straight stitch on the sewing machine is not stretchy. Your seams will pop if you use a straight stitch. This is where a serger comes in awfully handy. A serged edge stretches (if all the tensions are adjusted properly). Therefore, you can have a finished, clean and professionally looking seam in a flash.
If you don't there are some options.
A lot of machines that have more than 10 or so stitch options will have a stretch stitch option or several. My machine has a bunch and my manual tells me which ones are for stretch fabrics.
Some look like serging once they are done only with only one needle and one thread instead of four... it takes at least 4 times as long to complete the seam. But... it works.
Here is an example of some of the "stretch" stitches that are on my sewing machine.
Another option is a zig zag stitch. A zig zag will stretch better than a straight stitch.
Also, a longer stitch will stretch better than a shorter stitch and sometimes loosening the tension will help too.
For hems, a double needle works wonders. It allows two threads on top to share the same bobbin thread. In doing so, the bobbin thread creates a zig zag that will stretch. Some machines work with a double needle better than others. And machines can be manipulated to work better. It's all in the timing. I had to take one of my machines in to a shop to have the timing aligned in order to work with my double needle better. There are three different widths of double needles that I am aware of. I think 4.0 looks and works the best. 2.0 is too narrow and 6.0 is very wide and may be too wide for your machine.
Doesn't the double needle make things look so professional? This is the back.
Trouble shooting:
Stretchy fabrics have a way of stretching when you sew them. What started out as a simple seam will stretch and slide so bad that you have no idea what happened.
Use pins... lots of them, practice, and sometimes a vinyl foot on your machine will help. Also, if you are sewing something stretchy to something that isn't as stretchy, put the stretchy fabric on the bottom. The feed dogs will help to move that stretchy fabric along whereas if it's on top, the foot will stretch it out as you sew.
If your sewing machine has the option, the tension of your presser foot can be reduced which can help a bit too. My sewing machine doesn't have that option... although I wish it did.
Skipped stitches are usually a result of needle problems. If your needle has even a little snag or slight bend, it will skip stitches. Anything slowing the needle down will cause it to miss the bobbin thread. Total bummer.
My friend was struggling with button holes. I don't have a ton of experience with button holes so I may be way off, but this is my idea to make button holes in knit work. Stretchy fabric doesn't like to have a billion holes put in it so close together like a button hole stitch would do. The stitching will tend to stretch out the fabric, pull it down into your feed dogs and in general make a really big mess. So my suggestion is to make the sewing machine think it's not stretchy. How? Get some tear away stabilizer. I think they even have a sticky kind but I could be wrong. This is what embroiderers use under their fabric to keep fabric from being totally puckered and destroyed by all those tiny stitches and gives their stitches body. Just place the stabilizer under your fabric so it rests against the feed dogs. After the button hole is made, the stabilizer can be torn away and the hole cut. It really should make the whole process easier. The top picture is my first attempt at a button hole on knit. Not too bad. Below that is a button hole without stabelizer placed underneath the fabric. You can see that the machine ate my fabric and I couldn't finish the button hole. :( some machines might have a knit button hole option. It uses less stitches to prevent bunching and eating and swearing ;)
I can't think of much more... Any questions? I would love to answer them if I can.
